66516362300 Kenmore Dishwasher - Instructions

I simply pulled out the old gasket and pushed the new one in with my fingers. I had to trim about an inch off the length with a utility knife. The seal is nice and tight now and we have no more water leakage.

Replaced pump and motor. For the price of the products individually, it only made sense to do the whole thing. As someone else mentioned, much easier to remove the dishwasher and turn it on it's side to remove/replace. Disconnect 3 fittings, 3 stop devices and remove. Other than getting about 20 cuts on my hands from all the metal, it wasn't bad at all.

I snapped on the new part onto the track. It was that easy! :) Thank goodness the part was available from Part Select!
T. Edwards

My 2 parts were delivered very quickly. We had been putting off the repair, mainly because any time you hire a capable repair man, the charge to "walk through the door"is very high. I actually thought about buying a new DW for this reason . . . Then I googleD PARTS, And was lucky to find PARTS SELECT. I was most impressed with the graph layout of the parts, which enables the buyer to actually measure the part being replaced to be sure the correct item is being ordered. The instructions were excellent, and this grandmother took care of the repair, easily.

Was able to replace and repair without taking the dishwasher out. Thermostat is behind and to the left of the power junction box. Has 2 wires going to it. It is up against the bottom of tub. I used an angled mirror to see what I was doing. 1 small screw to detach and pull down thermostat. Be sure power is off before you start. Also reprogrammed defaults. Hit any button 1-2-3, 1-2-3, 1-2-3, fast and close door. Let it sit 15 min to run and re-set defaults. Now I have heat and dry dishes.

Removed leads from fuse and installed jumper wire (while the power was off, then turned back on) to determine that circuit board was still good. Ordered new fuse and installed using existing wire connections. Did not splice in new connectors that came with fuse. Wires were clean and good and did not want to cut and splice.

Since I had watched a repairman diagnose the problem, it was eash to reproduce how to pull the unit out from the wall and find the faulty part to remove it and replace it with the new thermistor. Two wires to disconnect and connect and repair nearly complete. Pushed it back in, screwed it back to the cabinet and installed foot plate and done.

Replace motor/pump assembly

I had removed this part several times before, it had clogged from sediment, so I had practice. That issue was resolved, but I determined the water level during the wash and rinse cycles was low, and the valve appeared to be the culprit. The trick is to remove the valve from the bracket, removing the single screw, and sliding the unit so the tangs on the bracket can be pushed to the rear and then towards the front. When you disconnect the electrical connection, then the valve can be pulled out towards the front for better access and to disconnect, if your supply hose is long enough. That makes swinging the wrench easier. Other wise it is tedious. Make sure to reapply thread tape after reconnecting the supply hose.

Bent the plastic housing down holding the spinner. Slipped the top of clip in slot on top of housing. Attached spinner and bottom of clip by holding top clip and pushing bottom of clip in place. No tools were needed.

Unscrewed the top of the dishwasher from the counter top and slid the appliance out part way in order to reach the door spring. I loosened he spring from the bracket then slid the sleeve over the bracket. I reattached the spring to the bracket, slid the dishwasher back in and screwed it to the top just like it was prior to removal. Easy as pie.

This procedure assumes that the DW water connection and drain are flexible. Remove Phillips head screws (2) mounting top front of DW to underside of counter. Grasp door and gently coax DW outwards approximately 1 foot. WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES. On RHS check lower end of door spring and note in which notch the spring sits. On RHS, grasp white plastic connector ("hinge bushing", with spring looped around one end), stretch the spring while carefully lifting other end of connector up, out of slot in door hinge lever. Pry door hinge lever 1/8" away from DW body while sliding friction sleeve over its end. Work friction sleeve past hinge hook, past wider section, into narrower slot (about 2" from end of hinge hook). Raise door to closed position. Insert and hold lower (90 degree) end of spring into the same notch that it was originally in (mine was in the 5th from the front). Loop the door end of the spring into one end of the white plastic hinge bushing, then insert the other end of the bushing into the door hinge lever's hook while stretching the spring. It does not require much strength. CAUTION: If the lower end of the spring is not properly inserted and held in the notch, it can pop out and possibly injure you! Repeat for the LHS. Push the DW back in place, and reinstall the two mounting screws.

Removed first part of the broken part from the top rack of the dishwasher from below.

Removed the screw from the bottom of the sprayer arm to release the second half of the broken part.

Threaded new part in sprayer arm and replaced screw.

Attached part to top rack of dishwasher from below. This part was difficult. (The part appeared to be a little larger than the original.) It was a two person job, one person pushing down on the rack and the second pushing upwardand inward on the part it click to click it into place. Dishwasher now works great.

Remove upper tray and spray arm. Remove two screws retaining pipe for upper spray arm and overhead. Unscrew retainer on top of lower spray arm and remove. Gently rotate the upper feed pipe clockwise until pipe can be removed from lower pipe. You may then remove the lower pipe and bearing housing where the seal is. Reverse order for reassembly. I also replaced upper spray arm bushing. Very simple, remove one screw and the arm will come out.

No brainer