6745 - Instructions

Deflector has 3 bolts attaching it. They require a star wrench. Had to purchase same to do the repair. Removed the bolts(they are sheet metal type screws(bolts). Installed the deflector and started dryer. Loud rubbing sound noted. Shut off and checked the drum and noted it was not running concentrically. Removed deflector and the found the 3 screws actually retained the drum to drive. Had to make alignment pins to allow proper alignment of the drive, drum, and deflector. Once the pins were used during installation of the deflector everything worked correctly. Turned on dryer and it operated normally.
Had I had the proper tools the repair would probably have taken 30 minutes or less.

Unplugged and removed the drain and supply hoses from the back; some water will run out so be ready for that. I laid the machine down on two 2x4s to keep from crushing the supply and drain nipples. Just follow the instructions included with the parts, all steps are straight forward accept for two things: 1. they talk about pulling down on the transmission shaft to slip on the retaining clip. With only the end of the shaft sticking out there isn't much to grab on to. I found by using a thin blade scraper inserted into the retaining clip groove, prying downward on the shaft I could then get a regular screwdriver blade into the same groove and expose the entire groove and slip on the clip. 2. they talk about "Adjusting Brake Disengagement" after studying this for a while it just refers to which thickness of thrust washer to use. After trying both the .062 and .032 I found that only the .032 would allow the retaining clip to engage. Rechecking the brake disengagement, everthing seemed to work fine. The machine now has a stronger spin cycle and even bath towels are ready for drying after the normal spin.

First I popped the lid up to about 70 degrees. Then removed the two hinges. Then removed and replaced the two hinge pins. The key is to then just start the two screws for the hinges, slip the pins in and then tighten the hinge screws. Total time was 5 minutes.

First I removed the removed the screws that held the top on the dryer. Next I removed the screws that held the controls on from the back. I then removed screws that held the left side in place and removed the drum by first removing the drive belt.
The heating element unit was removed by removing four screws and the wiring harnes. I reversed the procedure to install the heating unit and put the machine back together.

Turned off water suply. Removed drain (pipe is short). Then slid washer out so I could tilt it back and work under the washer. I put a wood brace under the front of the washer for safety. I then followed the instructions that came with the parts.

Pulled the front of the dyer off, snapped old bearing off, snapped new drum bearing in, affixed 2 new slides and 2 new other widgets (5 pieces total). Vacuumed/cleaned out various bits and pieces before i closed her up.

No squeaking.

Called a priest, but he died. Now i just do whatever the demon says, but i do it with quietly dried clothes.

easy no problem

No one would sell me just the plastic pulley,they said that I had to buy the whole motor.160.00 dollars.I keep searching and found partselect.com and they had the pulley on line.I had my part in two days for about 12.00 dollars and it took about 5 min. to install.Just had to tap it lightly with small hammer to move it up the rod to fit in groves.Thank-you partsselect for being honest. BOB N.C.

unplugged dryer ,pulled dryer front and top off and removed drum , found element wire broken . loosened element to be able to remove wire pods . reverserd removal ( belt is a little tricky ) reattached power cord to outlet worked like a charm.

Someone I'm related to by marriage accidentally dried a plastic-coated tablecloth on high heat, and our heat deflector was hosed. I was very happy to find this part here for such a reasonable price; Sears wanted about $65 for it. Installation required a Torx bit, and removing the old one was easy, but the dryer's design made it difficult to reinstall the heat deflector while keeping the dryer running concentrically. I ended up cutting the heads off three screws, threading those into the plate behind the drum, sliding the new heat deflector on over those, and then one by one replacing them with the original Torx head screws. Once I figured it out it didn't take long but it took me a while to figure it out. That's probably more a reflection on me than the dryer!

I removed the screws holding the cover for the switches.I twisted the old timer loose.I moved wires one by one to the new timer with pliers.Lastly, I twisted the new timer to the locking position and replaced the cover.Everything now works fine

The heating element was broken.

A very easy fix. Opening the front door to the dryer locate two chrome phillips head screws in the upper part of the door opening which hold on the top of the dryer. (I think in the older dryers the top simply was held on with keepers and you could simply pry it off. Not the case here)Lifting up on the front of the top it comes away from the back control panel. I would recommed that the control panel be removed as it is necessary to remove it to put the dryer top back on due to three clips that wont allow you to put the top back down with the control panel in place. It takes a star wrence to remove it. Once the top is off ther are two phillips screws holding the front of the dryer on (one on each side) remove them and the whole fron lifts up and off. The drum rides on a plastic schroud attached to the dryer inside front. Mine was so worn it required the purchase of the entire assembly which comes in two parts. The upper part had worn away so badly the drum was riding on the metal causing the noise. I ordered both the upper and lower assembly and both just simply snap off and the new ones snap right back on. No tools. I was a bit dissapointed as I assumed that the felt which is located in the lower assembly would come with the new part however it did not nor did some plastic tabs which the drum rides on in the upper assembly comes with the replacement part. It takes four of those tabs so order appropriately. Went back together easily and the whole job was done in about 40 minutes.

First I had to remove the top by taking out the two screws inside the door. Then I removed the front by taking out the two screws holding it from the inside. I needed to remove the drum and to the the belt off, I removed the left side. It has several screws down the back, two on the bottom and two in the front. I removed the belt and drum. I took out the old sleeve bearing. Part of it was broken off into the hole it goes into. I then had to remove the plate that holds the heating element. Once that was done, I put the new bearing on and replaced the drum slides on the from section. Then I reversed the process to reassemble. Not too bad.

Everything is cleaned as it is removed.

Remove the two screws holding the top down.
Disconnect two wires from door switch.
Remove the two hex screws holding the front on.
Remove the 4 screws holding the access panel on the back and disengage idler pulley to loosen the belt.
Remove the drum.
Label the wires then remove the heating element.
Check orientation of ground strap before disassembling rear bearing.
Remove four screws holding rear bearing to back of heating element.
Install rear bearing and ground strap on to heating element.
Reinstall heating element.
Reconnect wires.

Most Important : Get help putting parts back on drum! I didn't and that's why it took over 2 hours.
I will describe how I did it.

Unscrew bearing from inside of drum.
Wrap screwdriver with tape to a little larger than the screw hole.
Use small screwdriver to line up the drum, shim and deflector.
Don't forget the brass shim. It wasn't on the parts diagram.
Start two screws don't tighten them yet.
Remove Screwdriver and start third screw. Tighten all three down.
Put belt on drum.
Install drum and belt.
Reverse disassembly.
When putting the front on make sure drum rests in the felt.

I rated this a bit difficult because I did it myself. With help this is a fairly easy repair.