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79094142313 Kenmore Range - Instructions

All Instructions for the 79094142313
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Back Burner didn't function
We moved into our townhouse about 6 yrs ago. During the home inspection we checked the range and saw the Red light come on when we turned on each burner. After moving in we realized the large back burner did not work. The light came on but the element never got hot. I of course replaced the element but that did not work. Several years passed and we just ignored the issue. We just got by with 3 burners. Lately we realized how much easier it would be to have all four burners working. Knowing that we will be selling our townhome soon we figured we should either fix the problem or replace the range.

I didn't want to call a repair man because I didn't want to be charged a $150 to have him come out and they to pay extra for parts (and of course a 2nd visit). So I went to www.Partselect.com and typed in the model of my range. Found the diagrams for my range and saw that from the switch ran a pair of wires to a Universal Receptacle (aka Terminal Block Kit). I figured since the Red light turns on when I turn the switch on it has to be the Terminal Block.

I ordered the part from www.Partselect.com ($14.00 including shipping) and replaced the part. The burner still would not get hot. I decided to test the switch. I removed the Control Panel cover (which is secure by 2 screws just below the digital clock). Once the cover was off, I saw the Blue wires going from the switch to the Terminal Block. To test the switch, I disconnected the two Blue Wires from connectors H1 and H2 and temporarily connected them to H1 and H2 of another switch. Sure enough, when I turned the other switch the element got hot.

So I placed another order from www.Partselect.com for a replacement switch ($50 including shipping). When that part came, I flipped the electrical circuit going to the range. I then removed the Control Panel cover again. With the new switch in hand (holding it near the old switch still attached to the Control Panel, I used the pliers to pull out each wire from it's connector and place it to it's corresponding connector on the new switch. Once all the wires were connected to the new switch, I pulled the knob of the switch off then used a phillips screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the switch to the control panel. I replaced the old switch with the new one put the screws back in, replaced the knob. Turned the circuit back on and tested to make sure that the element got hot. When it did, then I replaced the Control Panel cover and enjoyed a nice dinner that was cooked in less time than we're accustomed to because of the new burner. So I spent a total of $64.00 to fix our range. Less than half the amount I would've spent if I called for a technican. And far less then buying a new range.

Partselect is a great resource for information. They have diagrams and schematics available to view and/or download. And when ordering it's a snap because there's an "Add to Cart" button next to each part it lists. So there's no confusion. I've already recommended Partselect.com to about 5 people. And will continue to do so!!
Parts Used:
Infinite Burner Switch
  • William from Burke, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
132 of 148 people found this instruction helpful.
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Oven wouldn't operated. Error code F9
I called a repair place. They charged $54 to diagnose, (said it needed a new latch motor) then wanted $220 to complete the repair. I checked online prices and did it myself for about 15 minutes work and the latch motor itself ($44?).

Was necessary to uplug the range, pull it away from the wall and remove the back panel sheet metal, then 3 screws that mount the motor. Replace motor, reattach sheet metal. Plug in. Done. Ready to bake cookies.
Parts Used:
Latch Motor
  • Richard from Centennial, CO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
69 of 88 people found this instruction helpful.
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oven did not heat up
Replaced the probe because that's what this site recommended.The oven still does not heat up.
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • Tim from ASHAWAY, RI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Socket set
73 of 119 people found this instruction helpful.
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Oven light receptacle broken - bulb base broke off
Turned power off at electrical panel. Pulled oven away from wall. Removed back cover (6 screws), then unplugged wires from old receptacle. I had to pull the squeeze clips backwards & break them to remove the old receptacle - couldn't squeeze them enough to remove them otherwise. The old receptacle came out through the inside of the oven, and the new one snapped in easily from inside the oven as well. Replaced wiring, installed new bulb, restored power & tested. Replaced back cover. Good time to vacuum under/behind where the oven usually lives before sliding it back to the wall.
Parts Used:
Oven Light Socket
  • Paul from Spokane Valley, WA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
67 of 105 people found this instruction helpful.
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Switch Was Making A Arcing Sound When Burner Was On
Removed the back cover of the range. Removed the knob from the front of the switch. Removed 2 screws holding switch to range. Removed wires one at a time and connected to proper poles on replacement switch and reinstalled new switch on range
Parts Used:
Infinite Burner Switch (Small Element)
  • Gerald from Paris, TN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
59 of 83 people found this instruction helpful.
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Old pans/bowls were corroded
Very easy---simply unplug the burners, remove the old pans and replace with the new ones

I was extremely pleased with the easy ordering and prompt delivery of parts that actually fit as they should!
Parts Used:
6-Inch Chrome Drip Bowl 8-Inch Drop Bowl
  • John from Nisswa, MN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
48 of 53 people found this instruction helpful.
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If burner was placed on HIGH, it wouldnt lower heat once LOW setting chosen
I had to replace the switch in the back of the control knobs. I was very grateful to the female phone attendant who answered my call. Since my part number had switched a few times, she took the time to reverify the "blueprints" of my machine with the parts carried at Parts Select and she helped me be assured that I was buying the correct part for my machine. She was SOOOO helpful. Will definately buy again from your store.
Parts Used:
Infinite Burner Switch
  • Juilo from Lake City, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
38 of 40 people found this instruction helpful.
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Top Broiler element burned out
I disconnected power cord. Removed cooking racks. Removed element mounting screws. Removed back panel and removed wires on both ends. Pulled element out put new one in and bolted down. Reconnected wires. Put rear cover on. Plugged in and checked for correct opreation. OK!
Parts Used:
Broil Element
  • Richard from Alexander City, AL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Socket set
40 of 53 people found this instruction helpful.
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Front Burner was on high all the time when on
Turn off the breaker to the stove. Very important because when you move the control panel around after removing it, you can inadvertently touch a hot wire to a grounded metal part on the stove. Remove the 3 nuts from the back of the control panel and the two nuts from under neath the control panel on either far side. Pull the control knob off by pulling straight away from the control panel. Remove the switch by unscrewing the two screws. Match the 5 wires from the old switch to the new switch by removing one at a time and paying attention to the labeling of each on both switches. Reassemble in reverse order. Turn breaker back on.
Parts Used:
Infinite Burner Switch
  • Gregory from Monument, CO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
32 of 36 people found this instruction helpful.
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anti-tip bracket not installed
I was selling my home and did not realize that the anti-tip bracket was not originally installed. A home inspection caught the problem and the buyers required that I install one. I could not find the original and obviously the installer never put it in place to begin with. The buyers wanted this resolved within a week so I had to act fast. I could not find one locally so I found what I needed on your website. It arrived in a couple of days and was easy to install. I used the template provided in the kit and drove the screws through the bracket into the wood plate behind the drywall. Pushed the range back in place and that's it. Couldn't get any easier.
Parts Used:
Anti-Tip Kit
  • Brian from Panama City Beach, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
35 of 47 people found this instruction helpful.
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oven temp not consistent with setting
took off back cover and unplugged old unit and installed new unit. oven probe was not the issue. probally control panel malfunction of readings. will continue using oven temperatue gauge inside to get settings for temperture as temp is important for baking.
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • john from spring, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
71 of 156 people found this instruction helpful.
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trouble code F10 low oven temperature, oven not overheating,low resistance reading on ohm meter
Turned off electric,removed rear panel and replaced part.oven is now operating good as new.
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • Michael J from STATEN ISLAND, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
19 of 23 people found this instruction helpful.
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oven would not heat up error code F10 showing on veiw screen
move the range out and unplug power supply, removing the back cover allows access to the probe, this can be done with screw driver or nut driver, loosen clamp that holds power cord in place and move backing out of the way, be careful sheet metal can be sharp, locate the probe unplug the connector and remove screw holding probe, pull old probe out install new probe, fasten down and plug in connector. attach backing and tighten clamp on power cord, plug in to power supply, turn on oven and give it several minutes for probe to work, it took only 20 minutes to replace the bad probe and the oven works like new hop this helps
Parts Used:
Temperature Sensor
  • Jess from DEWEY, OK
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
17 of 19 people found this instruction helpful.
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Old discolored drip pans that would not clean up.
I simply removed the old drip pans and inserted the new ones which matched and fit perfectly.
I'm glad I found you on line. Your service was fast and the whole transaction was easy!! Thanks.
Parts Used:
6-Inch Chrome Drip Bowl 8-Inch Drop Bowl
  • Elizabeth from Smyrna, TN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
17 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
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Large burner would turn on high and not cycle off
TURN BREAKER TO RANGE OFF! Move range out to access rear of the unit. Remove 6 screws to gain access to rear of controls panel. Pull knob off switch. Remove 2 pan head Phillips screws to take switch out. Lugs not in matching pattern but are clearly labled, swap wires one at a time. Reverse the disassembly steps and push the range back in place. DONE
Parts Used:
Infinite Burner Switch
  • Kevin from Nashville, TN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
17 of 20 people found this instruction helpful.
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All Instructions for the 79094142313
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