7WRS22FDBF00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

I slipped the shelf onto the brackets that already were on the sides of the refrigerator.

I first removed the ice bin from freezer. There were four nut screws on back of ice bin cover that I removed with a screw driver, giving me access to the deflector. The deflector has two prongs that attach it securely to the ice bin, I used a phylips head screw driver to release the prongs from the deflector. I installed the new deflector by placing it through the bottom portion of deflector area, using the phyllips screw driver I engaged the prongs of the deflector into slots on ice bin. There was a hook on the back side of the deflector that went over a metal rod that controls the ice cube release. Then replace front cover of ice bin with the four nut screws and returned it to the ice maker location.

Followed instructions supplied. It was relatively easy and the parts fit exactly right. Sears wanted twice as much for the part and service would have charged me another $100 to come to my home. I saved over $100 doing the project myself.

Water leaking from under refrigerator. Initially believed leak was from filter assembly. Removed filter and shut off water supply but leak appeared at different intervals again. Large puddle of water coming out from under refrigerator. Removed back lower panel and checked for leak, but didn't find any. My wife was also checking for leak and found a crack in drip tray. Only way we could get the drip tray out was to first remove front lower panel, disconnect and remove wiring harness in front of drip tray, unbolt water filter assembly, and unbolt water solenoid unit at rear of refrigerator. Their water lines connect to filter assembly. My wife controlled the water solenoid unit to give me play as I pulled the filter assembly out as much as I could from the front. I could now wiggle the cracked drip tray out from under the filter unit. Replaced drip tray and reinstalled wiring harness, water filter unit w/new filter, and re-bolted water solenoid unit at back of refrigerator. Replaced back lower panel after turning water back on and checking for leaks. Replaced front lower panel.

The reason still had leak after initially turning off water supply was because the drip tray is used to catch the water when refrigerator goes into the defrost cycle. Since the original drip tray had cracked, water only appeared on floor after defrost cycle.

Be advised that to do this job, you have to take the ice tray and feeder assembly completely apart. The only tricky part is that the nut, part 31 in the drawing, that holds everything together is reverse threaded. Since it's plastic, you're afraid you'll break it. If you know it's reverse threaded to begin with you can go ahead and apply the required force to get it off.

First I installed a defrost timer, (the old timer had burnt out contacts in it) It seemed to work for a few days, then went back to not comng out of defrost cycle, I then installed a defrost thermostat. It seems to be working better than before. I found out that maybe I wasn't running it cold enough. So I turned it up colder. Now it works ok for 2 - 3 days, then I check the Temp in the freezer and its up to 6o. So I manually reset the timer and it works for 2 - 3 days. Don't know what to do now to fix it.

pull the fridge out away from the wall and hope you have a long flex water supply hose.remove cardboard cover,oh yea unplug fridge first.unplug wire from the relay.flip the wire retainer off the relay and pry it away from the compressor.pull the 2 prong capacitor off and then reverse the steps to reasemble. skip the middle man at the local appliance shop.i waited 2 weeks for him to get the part and gave up.your reg shipping got it here in 2 days.

I removed the glides under the edges of the meat pan, remove the old pan, put the new pan in and replaced the glides. I was very pleased with PartSelect. I ordered my part, and it arrived the very next day. I will definitely order my next replacement part thru PartSelect.

I was not able to unplug the refrigerator because it is housed in a built-in. I removed the icemaker and following simple instructions from YouTube was able to pry the cover off the existing part. After a few gentle tugs, I disconnected the pinned wires from the old part. Connecting the new part was a little tricky but I managed with a little contorting. As soon as the pins connected the freezer light as well as the refrig lights came on. It took about 15 minutes to complete.

I began by replacing the central light board by using a plastic non-marring wedge type tool slipping it between the housing and the retainers to release the latch like catch. Then I removed the lightboard and light cover assembly by depressing the latch like retainers for the two wire connectors. Installation was as simple as snapping the wires into the connectors and then pushing the lightboard and light cover assembly into place. One major note: I learned from a repairman that you cannot resolve the problem by simply replacing the central lightboard. you must replace all three lightboards, the two in the refrigerator and the one in the freezer because unless you can absolutely identify which board is causing the fault, it will continue to cause a problem on the main board and the lights will not work. Replacing the other two boards is the same as the central board. Additional comment to consider: I absolutely fail top see how this design of using three circuit boards for a simple light saves me anything; in fact after only 5 years it has cost me in excess of $400 (or 20% of the original cost of the unit) just in materials for a simple light--absurd, ridiculous design. If it burns out again I will have an appliance repairman install a simple 1950's design switch a small LED bulb which will probably last longer than the unit.

Excellent fit and installation. The door bins slid right in and created the extra space needed on the shelves.

Removed the three motor screws pulled off old motor put new motor in place replaced screws and re-installed. It was producing ice three hours later. I originally tried to obtian these parts directly from Whirlpool in which twice they shipped me the wrong parts. Finally gave up on them and entered the whilrpool part number which crossreferenced to new part number which was correct the first try. Thank you!

That was due to the evaporator blocked by the ice. Check found the defrost timer is okay. The next thing I can think of is to replace the Electronic Control Board which is installed in the fridge side top compartment. Ply open the face cover, remove the nut and screw that secure the EC Board. Pull out the cable, mount the new card and re-connect. So simple. It is back in order.

First I unplugged the unit, then I popped off the cover to the icemaker electronics. Removed 4 screws, pulled out the broken electronic panel, and replaced with the new one. Returned the screws and cover. The next moring the ice bin was full.

This must have saved me $300, and the inconvernience of waiting around for the repair man. He would have made two trips since he would never have had this part with him.

New part slipped right into the studs and fit perfectly