9117318710 Kenmore Range - Instructions
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Oven worked but broiler wouldn't work
Moved stove out from wall and unplugged 110 cord. Removed broken igniter from broiler with nut driver. Removed protective cover from back of stove. Cut off plug from existing igniter wires on the back of the stove. Installed new igniter and fed wires trough to the back of stove and connected the wires with the supplied wire nuts. Reinstalled protective cover on the back of the stove. Plugged the 110 cord back in and returned stove back to the original location.
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Rodney from Rio Vista, CA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
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Oven would not light, broiler would.
The broiler still worked, so I knew the issue was not with the power or gas to the oven. It was easy to remove the inside bottom of the oven to look at the igniter and burner. 4 screws hold the oven bottom in place. After the igniter was in view, I turned on the oven to see if it glowed, which it did not. 2 more screws out and the igniter was loose. The two wires coming out of the igniter go through a hole in the back of the oven to a compartment below the oven. This compartment is accessed by removing the bottom drawer and removing a panel in the lower back of the oven held in by 4 screws. After disconnecting the wires, I attached a thin pull wire to them then pulled the igniter out through the oven door. The pull wires made it easy to feed the new igniter wires through the back of the oven. The rest is a reverse of the process.
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Veronica from Columbus, GA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver
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Wires On The Stove Were Short.
Removed the back part of the stove to reveal the wires connected to the igniter. Removed the wire nuts and removed the igniter. Reused the old bracket to mount the new part. Attached the wire nuts and replaced the back parts of the stove. Worked like a charm.
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william from chicopee, MA
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
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oven would not light.
Basically followed the instructions that others had posted. Removed the bad oven igniter by removing the two screws securing it to the burner. Attached the new ignitor and then spliced the new wires into the old wires with the ceramic nuts that came with new igniter.
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Thomas from Sault Ste. Marie, MI
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
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the oven would not work, the broiler and top burners are working.
i removed the oven door and then the lower panel.the two screws holding the igniter were hard to access, so i removed the gas rail.this made the job much easier. the advice from other people on this website was very helpful and made the repair much easier.just remember to shutoff both the electric and gas supply.
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BRIAN from TUCSON, AZ
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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oven failed to light, tripped afci - broiler and cooktop worked ok
replaced oven igniter - further details superflous as others have acurately documented the fix and procedure - thanks to all of you -
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Stephen from Canterburry, NH
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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Oven igniter coil burnt out.
Removed old igniter coil by removing 2 small hex head bolts and pulling the two wire plug connectors (be sure to unplug the range). Installed new coil and connected the wires with the ceramic wire nuts supplied with the new part.
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Tom from Elko, NV
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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oven ignitor quit
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mary from mountain home, AR
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
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Broken roller on hinge
Removed the oven door. Released spring on hinge. Removed 3 screws. Removed broken hinge and replaced new hinge reversing these steps.
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Angelina from San Diego, CA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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Replace oven door right hinge
I really can't add much more to the very good instructions already posted. You will need a flashlight to see the spring -- when connected it stands vertical with one end connected to the hinge. There are 3 holes you can connect to -- I used the middle one, #2. The other end of the spring is anchored to a hole/slot in the stove frame. It is very easy to position this spring. Be careful though, there's a lot of sharp sheet metal in there. You will need a phillips head screwdriver to remove/install 3 sheet metal screws that fasten the hinge to the stove.
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Arthur from Silver Spring, MD
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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Plastic roller on hinge had broken causing door not to open easily
Slid door off hinges. Removed 3 screws which hold hinge in place. Removed drawer to access spring for hinge. Gasped at all the crumbs and crap which had collected underneath the drawer. Cleaned up crumbs+crap from floor. Disconnected spring from hinge and removed old hinge completely. Installed new hinge with 3 screws. Attached spring to hinge - center hole fitting. Slid drawer back in place. Angled hinges outward in order to re-install door. Slid door back onto hinges. Door now operates nice and smoothly. Job well done.
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Roderick from Pleasanton, CA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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Oven quit heating up
There are other descriptions here, but here's my story. I pulled the oven door off (pull straight up on it, it will come off) and removed the bottom warming drawer (there are plastic tabs on the outside of each side of the drawer--slide them and pull, several times on each side). I turned off the gas from behind the stove and unplugged the range, undid two screws at the back of the oven floor and lifted it forward and up. The burner is visible, but here is the hard part. The bolts holding the ignitor are underneath it and angled such that it is almost impossible to get any type of tool near them. I have small hands, and that helped. The screws are a bolt-head type or hex head, and I found that a one quarter inch open end wrench sort of fit. 6mm was too small and 7mm was too large. I managed to get the screws loosened after much struggling and manuvering, with half my body inside the oven, and once it was out, I was able to reach in from where the warming drawer was and unscrew the two wire leads attached from the ignitor to the power. They are held by plastic screwcaps. The reverse process was self explanatory, except that you should put the new ignitor in the oven and feed the wires down through the back panel, then attach the screwcaps to join the wires to the leads. Then go back in the oven and attach the ignitor, back screw first, and tighten it all the way, since you may not be able to reach it once the front screw is in. Also, use the screws that come with the new ignitor, since they are easier to start than the old ones. Tighten the screws as tight as you can get them so the ignitor doesn't wiggle, then turn the gas back on and plug it in, and test it before you put it back to gether. Mine worked, but it was a pain to do, kind of like working on an old car that wasn't designed to be fixed easily. Good luck.
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Joseph from Rutland, VT
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Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Wrench set
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Plastic roller on right hinge was broken
Pulled oven door up and off. Removed old hinge and installed new hinge. Replaced oven door. It was a very simple job. The whole project took less than 15 minutes.
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Arthur from Northridge, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers
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Oven would not light
I removed the oven racks and the bottom cover. The bottom cover had 2 hand tight screws. Then I had to remove the silver sheet metal plate attached with 1 screw. Then I removed the 2 small screws that held the old Igniter in place. Then removed the 2 wire nuts connected to the oven wires. The new igniter fit in the same place as the old and I attached it using the same old screws. Then I connected the wires using the new wire nuts provided in the igniter kit. After testing the new igniter by turning the oven on to 200F, i replaced all the parts i removed including the silver plate the oven bottom and the racks.
Parts Used:
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David from Baltimore, MD
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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oven wouldn't go on.
I removed the bottom drawer from the oven, took my handy nut driver out and removed two screws from the round igniter. When it was loose from the oven I removed the two wire nuts conecting it to the power sourse, I reversed the process and it was working again. One thing did go wrong my wife made me clean the oven that wasn't part of my plan :)
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Larry from Palmdale, CA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver
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