9119599980 Kenmore Range - Instructions

I ordered the replacement clips from this site and they arrived in a timely manner. The clips were perfect, but due to the age of the oven, the holes had elongated and the new clips kept falling out also. I modified the clips by widening the tips with a pair of pliers. They are holding just fine. I don't think the older clips could've withstood the modification.

1. Bought replacement part said to replace old switch.
2. Pulled old switch out.
3. Replacement part did not match. Would have to take entire switch panel apart to change to this part.
4. Multiple-part instructions very poor. For my switch unreadable.
5. Old part was "push to turn". New part was not.
6. Knob did not fit new switch. Old shaft was "D" shaped. New is square.
7. Gave up. Need to call repair shop.
8. Hope this helps.

New one a little different ,but it was marked for wiring!
Had to install upside down because wires would not reach right side up!
Had to pull back side of knob out and turn 180 degrees and glue in knob, so knob would be right side up!
Works fine! Now all burners work again!

GE changed the design a little, moving a connector so the existing wires didn't reach. I texted the model number to an address provided with the part, and GE returned a URL for installation instructions. The instructions said there should be two jumpers to extend the wires, but there was only one, so I had to make a trip to the hardware store to get connectors to make my own jumper. Read the instructions carefully for where to connect the wires. My initial connection was wrong, but nothing bad happened, just the unit didn't heat. Two mounting tabs from the old unit need to be moved to the new. Heat shrink tubing is provided to cover the joints where the jumpers connect to the old wiring. If the jumper hadn't been missing, it would have been a quick, easy install.

When I ordered, nobody (19 different web sites) had the part in stock. GE took over 2 months to ship the part to PartSelect, but finally the stove is fully functional again.

Replace part an wires

All I had to do was pop the clamp on the top part of the heating element and push the clamp into the hole.

Unscrewed the heating element from the inside back of the oven and removed the housing cover from the back of the stove to access the terminals. (The unit had arked and fused the terminal to the connector.) Installed the new unit and replaced the housing cover on the back and screwed the unit into the back of the oven. Works like a charm.

First shut the power to the stove,then had to slide the stove out so I could get at the back to remove the panel screws.Once you have the back off remove the knob on the front.Under the knob is 2 phillips screws that you need to remove.Next I took the new switch and matched up the wires to the old switch.Reinstall is the reverse.Once the switch is in place you must remove the excess shaft to match the length of the old one.This is done with the use of 2 pliers,you grasp the shaft with both pliers and snap it off where you need it.The kit comes with spacers so you have got to match up the right one so the switch is solid on the shaft.This finishes the project,next turn the power back on and check that all is working ok.Job finished.

very easy remove the bad bulb install the new one

Open and slide door upward off of hinges. Removed bottom drawer to access hinge spring. Detached spring, noting proper hole in hinge for reinstallation. Removed three screws holding hinge and removed hinge. Compared new part to old...exact match. Inserted hinge, and reinstalled the three screws. Reattached spring in hinge hole. Slid door back down onto hinges. Done in four minutes flat!

Removed old hinges and installed new hinges.
Hardest part was determining that worn hinges were the cause of problem, then ordering replacements. GE website hinge on exploded view did not look like hinges I removed.Thanks to Google I got on to PartSelect.com website where excellent pictures of hinges and one-inch grid confirmed they sold exactly what I wanted for my 13-year old range, the model number of which was not even on the GE website.

Followed the video directions on your website - GREAT INFORMATION. Everything went very smoothly It took me longer to find my work light (after turning off the electric to the oven) out in the garage than it did to complete the repair!! SUPER PLEASED - WOULD NOT HESITATE TO RECOMMEND THIS COMPANY TO ANY DIY ADVENTURER!!

I pretty much followed the youtube video posted under the part that I needed. Turned off electricity to that area of the house. Unplugged stove. Took out the old sensor, pushed new sensor cord through the back hole. I did put a small amount of tape,so I could pull it through from the back better. It was impossible to get the clip disconnected in the back and the new clip didn't match up correctly anyway. Ended up having to cut the wires and strip them. I twisted them together and put on the ceramic wire nuts on. Reversed ever thing I did and F3 appeared. Looked that code up on internet. It was from an open or shorted oven. Suggested I check the connections. Pulled stove out again, unscrewed caps on wires and noticed the sensor's wire had another cloth type coating on it. I gentle cut that off, twisted and capped wires again. Plugged in oven, turn on electricity, and tried out stove. Everything is working just fine. Everything took a little longer because this was first time doing this type of repair.

I removed the control panel by removing 7 screws and replaced the light indicator and lens.

Took Switch panel off range. Disconnected Infinite switch. Reinstalled infinite switch.. Replaced panel. Repair was very simple and self explainatory.
Knott County Housing Authority Maintenance Personnel