CRSH237LS4 Crosley Refrigerator - Instructions

very easy to do. just snap into place

Took the ice storage bin out. Took the unit apart,and disamble the augar unit. Ordered parts from manufacture, which arrived in two days. As soon as I got the parts, I reassambled it. Work perfect. Good job!

I removed the ice container found the part # on the bottom ordered a new one and installed it. It just slipped right in to place.

Remove the bottom freezer drawer. Remove back metal evaporator panel. Wire in new defrost terminationT-stat. Reassemble evap panel. Good to go.

I removed the back cover and removed the clip holding the compressor- run capacitor and start relay. I replaced these 2 components and clean the dust from the frig., and from the bottom of the floor. I replaced the back cover ; Loss about $300 worth of meat when when the frig. failed. Then I thought that, during these turbulent times, there are many which don't have a refrigerator or any meat to place in it, The refrigerator is "running" normal again.

I took the side cover off. With a Phillips unscrewed the screw, took the outer part off, with nut driver undid the two screws. Took the part out in screwed the 4 Phillips head screws. Took out the broken part, replaced with new part. Reassembled. Put filter in and it now works perfectly.

I followed the video tutorial published here. The step I altered was setting the shrink wrap; I did not have a heat gun to safely shrink it, so I folded it tightly onto itself and wrapped it in electrical tape. No more frost buildup.

Looked at video on how to remove and reinstall support and followed the instruct ions

Support studs have an expansion fitting - center post has to be pushed through to allow expansion joint to collapse for removal. After installation, this post can be pushed in or pulled out to secure the stud and be the proper length to hold the bins.

None of this was obvious - an online tip from another member was invaluable.

It was very simple-it is just an insert glass shelf above the vegetable drawers. But, it was fairly easy to identify on your website and delivered in about two days.

I unplugged the refrigerator and removed the back panel in the freezer. Here the coils were covered in a block of heavy frost. The coils needed to defrost, I allowed this to happen of the course of a few hours. Once this was done I used the wire cutters, cutting the two wires to the thermostat. Doing this I checked the continuity & got no reading. Having ordered the part at a more than reasonable price including 2 day delivery, I was ready to complete the repair. Stripping the thermostat wires connected the the freezer unit, I attached the two wires color to color to the new thermostat. Here I needed to insert both ends into the connector (butt end), crimping both sides. Making sure each end I'd secure. Do this for both sets of wires. Placing the new thermostat back on the the cooper coil (on the same one it was removed from), put the freezer back in place. Here I only screwed in two, in case I need to go back in. I plugged the refrigerator back in turn the settings back to default or factory. Allowed the refrigerator to come back up to temperature for 24-48 hours. I did these and I'm glad to say my 12 year refrigerator is working just like before.

Turn off ice maker
Slide wire harness shield off connector
Disconnected harness
Loosened 2 wall screws
Remove old ice maker
Installed new one reversing process

I replaced the bulb using my hands to twist the bulb in the socket located at the top of the refrigerator.

Took drawers out by removing 2 screws on top of rail near front, then popped black plastic cover off in lower right inside cabinet...sensor just un plugged and new one plugged in easily...did not fix problem though...display set at 34 but bottom drawer reads about 40 at best and upper drawer reads around 55...dont think the 3 little fans inside on back wall have been running

I broke off remainder of clip, and used phillip
screwdriver and pushed pin into wall. I lined up new support and pushed in peg to secure