DE106 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Removed the screws and took the door off then took the front panel off and popped up the top. Then pulled the drum out. Took snap ring pliers and removed rollers and replaced with new rollers then vacuumed all lint from machine and reversed operation to put everything back together. Operation was a total success!

I deduced the lid switch was the problem.

I removed the two screws holding the control panel on. Pulled the control panel back.
Disconnected the ground wire of the lid switch.
removed the two top clamps that hold the panel to the top of the machine.
Pulled back the casing (outside of the washer) and placed it on it's side on the floor. Here I could reach the switch. Removed old, installed new and reversed the process.

The part that gave me the biggest problem was setting the casing back on to the frame. You have to slide the front part in at the bottome, then lean back the rest of it.

Took off back cover, thermostat was easily identified because of photos I've seen on website. Took 2 connectors off, removed 2 screws and removed old thermostat. That was pretty much it!

NOTE: Replacement thermostat 694674 has an adjustable temperature range setting that MUST be manually set prior to installing! You need to use the enclosed chart to find your original part# and make sure the setting is matched. My original part# 341146 had a "D" setting so I had to change but very easy to do.

After unplugging the dryer, first I removed the two screws that hold the lower front of the dryer in place. Pulling the bottom out slowly releases the upper clips from the dryer top. I then removed the two wires for the door switch in order to move it out of the way. I then remover the four screws that hold the duct and grid to the front of the drum opening from the inside of the drum. I then simply put the new duct and grid assembly in place and replaced the four screws that hold it to the drum opening, replaced the wires to the door switch and replaced the front of the dryer.

First I unplugged the machine. I removed the two screws in the front panel and tilted the bottom of the panel out unclipping it at the top. I removed the lint duct whichis held in place with several 1/4" hex head screws. Then I removed the blower cover, also held on wth 1/4" hex head screws, exposing the blower wheel. Using snap ring pliers I removed the snap ring at the end of the motor shaft. Using needle nose liers I removed the spring clamp around the center hub of the old blower wheel and pull the blower wheel off the motor shaft. After cleaning as much lint out as I could I put the new blower wheel on the motor, secured with spring clamp and snap ring. Then I put the blower cover and lint duct back on and put front panel back on.

Followed the instructions on the video, and saved 500 hundred dollars. I was already shopping for a new dryer. Thanks so much!

My daughter found the video on youtube, which showed step by step repairing procedures. I just followed it and fixed my dryer in 15 min.

I ordered the switch, which is what most people told me the problem was. I didn't have a multimeter, so I couldn't test the current one.

I removed the two screws from above the lid switch, removed the control panel screws on either side, and used a flat screwdriver to pry the top off by popping the clips.

The switch was easy to reach, and I compared the old and new switch after removing the paddle assembly. The new switch has three prongs, whereas my old one had two, so I put the gray wire terminal onto the bottom prong. I set everything down, plugged it in, and tested it, but still no spin cycle.

After some further research, I realized the problem was with the spin solenoid under the washer, or the red wire that leaves the lid switch and goes to the spin solenoid, also called a wig-wag solenoid. (This is a belt driven model, not direct drive.) It's not too common that the solenoids fail, but it is rather common that the wires break inside the insulation on this model.

Moral of the story is always ohm through the switches and wires before ordering replacement parts. (Remember, never ohm through a live circuit.)

Replacing the blower fan took way too long, like 4 hrs, because I didn't know how to disassemble the dryer and get to the problem. Replacing the idler bracket and assorted retaining rings and washers was fast, something like 1 hour. Disconnect the power cord, exhaust hose, and gas line. Remove two screws at the bottom of the face of the machine, unplug the electrical harness to the door light, switch and ground and remove the front of the machine. Remove the access panel at the back of the machine and remove the belt from the idler pulley. Remove the four screws holding the front drum support assembly and remove the drum. Replace some old retaining rings and the spring washers on the drum support rollers. Around back assemble the idler pulley assembly with some new washers and the old roller which seemed in good condition. Put it all back together. About one hour.

Unplugged the dryer!!!! Removed two screws from lower front panel. Pulled bottom of front panel forward which allowed clips holding top of panel to release. Unlcipped wires attached to door switch on front panel. Set aside front panel. Removed 4 screws(2 on left & 2 on right) from the drum retainer ring. Set aside retainer ring. Removed thin metal cover protecting blower wires. Removed several screws holding blower cover. Note blower is located on lower left below the lint screen. Used snap ring pliers to remove snap ring securing old blower wheel(an external snap ring). Removed old blower wheel from motor shaft. Inserted new blower wheel on motor shaft. Replaced snap ring. Replaced blower cover. Replaced thin metal wiring cover. Replaced drum retainer ring. Reconnected door switch wiring. Replaced front panel. Done. A hint on the maytag dryer. If your drum wiggles out too far the belt on the drum might not stay aligned. There is a groove on the drum...the belt should NOT sit in this groove...it should ride on the drum about an inch in front of the groove!!!

Using the instructions accompanying the belt I bought from you,I removed the casing an front support for the drum. I then tried to follow the instructions to install the new belt from the front and found it to be absolutely impossible.I saw that there is a removeable plate on the lower right corner of the back that,if removed, would expose the motor and idler pulleys that are the object of the installation so I removed it and,without much difficulty, installed the belt. One problem in doing so involved the belt's tendency to slide into the groove in the drum when manipulating it onto the pulley set so I enlisted the aid of my wife to hold it in place from the front while I successfully and rather easily did so.

popped out old female clasp on dryer itself with screwdriver, undid 2 screws on dryer door and door handle with phillips screwdriver, popped in new male clasp part, put door knob back on and put the two screws back in door and it was all set to go. Less than 15 minutes to do. Better than new and wife is happy. No more duct tape holding door closed now.

I found a broken heating element ( No conductivity with ohm meter) It was fairly easy to thread a new one through. But I tightened the ceramic terminal just a little too much and it cracked. So be careful at that point.

Sans manual, I turned to the web to find out how to open up the dryer. Maytag uses two Phillips screws on the bottom front panel. Once removed, the front pulls out at the bottom and slides free from the top. Caution, wires on the left side of the front panel prevent total detachment from the dryer. A 1/4 hex screwdriver was used to remove the cover to the blower housing. Once the cover is unbolted attached wires prevent its complete removal and can be set clear of the blower housing. Pliers were used to remove a pinch clamp from the squirrel cage fan (blower assembly) and snap ring pliers were needed to remove the retaining snap ring. The fan was easily removed from the motor's rotor. The loose fan caused damage to the blower housing which I believe was the source of the original rattle. Once the fan had been removed, the housing was removed by using a 5/16 socket on the end of an extension. The replace parts were installed in reverse order and fit perfectly. Other work included the replacement of the drive belt for the drum. PartSelect was chosen because it had the parts in stock and could be shipped overnight.

Took off face of dryer (two lower screws below door in front) and then removed the drum which gave me access to the idler arm and idler pully. Vaccumed the interior to remove dust and lint. Replaced idler arm and idler pulley assembly. Replace old belt as drum was reinstalled. Opened rear access panel to complete final routing of the new belt over idler pulley and drive motor. Turned the machine on to check repairs and function. Closed rear access door. Pushed dryer back into place and re-leveled machine.