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Heat deflecter coated with plastic from drying plastic table cloth.
Advice from others with same problem on your web site was very helpful. I removed one of the three torx screws holding the deflecter, Used 2.5 star-drive screw diver bit and cordless drill/driver. Replaced 2 of three torx screws holding the deflecter with the headless brass screws, Using vice grip to tighten. Removed third torx screw and removed old deflector. Used shop vac to clean behind it. Installed new deflector, sliding it over the 2 headless screws, then installing one of the torx screws, then replacing the brass screws with original torx screws, one at a time.
Dryer wouldnt work. I was out of town when dryer stopped working. My grandmaother, who I live with, had brother came over to troubleshoot. He spent a good amount of time and couldnt figure out the problem. When I returned home I tried it and immediately knew the knob was stripped because it didnt make the clicking noises. I verified by seeing where flat section was, then turning with knob and then seeing if flat section moved. Ordered new knob. Pulled old one off and put new one. Worked like a charm
I popped the door switch out with a small screwdriver, disconnected the electrical connection and re-connected the new switch and popped the new switch in place with a little adjustment.
Took the top and front end of the dryer off. Took the old slider spacers off and installed the new ones. I replaced all four of them even though only two was bad. While I had the dryer open I decided to use my shop vac to clean up the lint that had accumulated there. Replaced the front and the lid plugged it up, hit the start no noise just like new.
My dryer knob broke on the timer cycle switch so I ordered a new one along with a new dryer knob which didn't fix the problem, then I ordered the start switch and all I had to do was remove the back of the dryer where all the knobs are located and remove the start switch by turning the start switch to remove it, replace it with the new one by turning it till it clicks in just like when you removed it, put knob back on the front. However that didn't fix my dryer either so I ordered the thermal fuse and switched it out and that was what started the dryer back up. It is located on the back all the way to the bottom where the electrical cord is. Remove the cover and locate the fuse. Use a pair of pliers to pop it out and push the new one back in.
Found the dryer's high limit thermostat had opened up. Likely cause was excessive lint buildup in exhaust vent pipe to outside. Used wire nuts to "temporarily" bypass thermostat and cleaned out the vent pipe When new part arrived...
Removed control panel screws and panel was laid on top of dryer Removed back panel screws. Removed top panel screws. Lifted to allow right side swing out slightly.
I did not have sufficient tool to reach the thermostat therefore I reamed out a hole in the rear panel above the thermostat fastener screw to allow a long handle screwdriver into the area for replacement.
Removed temporary bypass and used wire nuts to utilize dryers' thermostat existing wiring.
Having 2 persons make the job easier. 1) Remove the screws that holds the hinge to the body of the unit. 2) Remove the screws around the door so you can get to the hinge. 3) Remove bad hinge and replace with new one.
remove top of cabinet and front panel. placed belt around drum and replaced idler pully placed new belt around pully and was done. not a hard job at all. replced front panel and top. thanks to a speedy delivery of my parts dryer was only down two days.
After checking the obvious things such as household circuit breaker and verifying that the dryer power outlet did indeed have the proper voltage supply, I started troubleshooting the dryer itself. The "partselect.com" website has a lot of good troubleshooting information. I used it to narrow my search and began by checking the fuse located where the power cord connects to the dryer. From there I used the information that the website provided for finding and checking the overtempt switch for the dryer. It's located in a very hard position to get to, and it was indeed bad. I ordered a new one from the "partselect.com" website and started checking my dryer exhaust vent hose for a blockage, as that was the most practical cause for the overtempt switch to fail. Once I verified that the exhaust was clear from any obstruction, I set my sights on removing the bad overtempt switch.
I have over 30 years' experience troubleshooting and repairing both AC and DC electrical and electronic circuits and systems. I'm 6'4" and have very big hands and it was next to impossible for me to get my hands in a position to loosen and remove the 1 screw that was holding the switch in place. After an hour or so I was finally able to remove the switch. There was no way that I was going to be able to successfully install the new switch due to the lack of space. I ended up going back to the "partselect.com" website to see if anyone else had this same issue and found a way to overcome it. After few minutes of reading thru different installation comments from other people, I found one that had the key to quickly and accurately installing the switch. This person used a drill and drilled a hole in the back panel of the dryer to gain access to the screw that holds the switch in place. So, I drilled a small 1/8" hole in the back panel directly across from where the head of the screw was. I used several more drill bits and worked my way up to a 1/2" sized bit. Then, I used a 1/4" drive socket set with a 10" extension and 1/4" socket to install the screw retaining the switch. I reassembled the dryer and have had no other trouble since.