KDTE104ESS4 KitchenAid Dishwasher - Instructions

Rolled out old, rolled in new.

You need to pull the unit out to get access to the spring connected to the rear leg frame. Use the everything in the kit. The rollers are upgraded and will guid the cable better.

all 4 wheel units needed to be replaced, popped them off and installed need wheel units in roughly 10 minutes, no tools needed.

A Mouse friend had seen fit to chew through the original drain line. I used my Model Number, and was able to order the correct part . It arrived the next day. The job itself is fairly straight forward. You will need to access the rear of the machine. This may include shutting off, and disconnecting the water supply line. (Adjustable wrench). Mine is under the sink, on the "Hot" side. You may also need to un-plug the unit. (recommended) . A pair of (Pliers) will be needed for the spring clamp.

Removed old rack and and removed old rollers and installed old rollers on new rack as they work better than the new rollers sent with new rack

I watched the YouTube video I found in the link provided but PartSelect and followed the steps shown in the video. I replaced the two broken rack adjusters in about 20 minutes. I especially like the fact that PartSelect helped with the link provided in the email that acknowledged the part order. A great customer service. I’ve passed this fact on to my other friends who routinely DIY repair projects.

Following a utube video made it easy. Removed the outer cover of the door to expose latch. Two screws remove the latch, pay attention to how it was positioned and put the new one on and then replace the panel. But first turn off the electricity to the unit at the fuse box.

Removed old gasket, cleaned track thoroughly, then followed instructions from video on Part Select order form. Instructions very clear and precise. Getting the new gasket was a little tedious at the corners but take your time and work the gasket with your fingers as shown on the video.

After bailing out the unit, filled filter hole with a moderate amount of Dawn dish washing detergent. Ran dishwasher twice to remove all Dawn from the unit. Had to bailout the water (and suds) from the washer both times. After the dishwasher finally drained I inserted the new filter..

Unplug dishwasher and slide it out from under cabinet. Remove old broken link (a heavy string between two plastic parts) and replace with new one. Slide dishwasher back and plug it in. Very easy and no tools required.

I did not relize that the drain hose was in two parts. Naturally I ordered the wrong half. So after I relized my mistake, I re-ordered the correct part. Once the correct part was received the repair was easy and went well.

The old tine row came out easily and the new one was easy to pop into place. I was pleased that it was so easy to order a replacement part.

The repair was easy. First remove the entire rack from the dishwasher. There are three clips that hold the rack adjuster in place. It's relatively easy to see how to loosen the clips to remove the old rack adjuster. I took a couple of photos before I loosened the clips to help remember where they belong. When putting the rack adjuster it's important to move the rack height adjustment release lever up and down until the vertical part of the rack adjuster easily slides into the slot in the upper rack bracket. Once the rack adjuster in in it's proper location replace the three clips removed at the start of the procedure. Place the rack back into the dishwasher.

I turned off the power to dishwasher first. Removed bottom plate to get to leveling legs. Lowered the legs as to be able to pull and skid dishwasher out from under counter.
Once dishwasher is removed from under locate the 4 screws on right side that hold racks remove them.
I would recommend replacing both skids on both side while you have the dishwasher pulled out.
Very easy to replace new rack slid once old rack removed.
The rack come assembled with skid and plastic holders.
This repair is a 10 minute repair per side.
Thanks Bob Seese

I removed and reinstalled the new gasket per the video instructions, but I found the corners to be much harder to install than indicated. I finally used a large, flat, dull screwdriver to carefully push the gasket all the way in, and used my fingers to feel whether the gasket was all the way in. I figured if the gasket wasn't all the way in, I would have a leak at the bottom of the door because the top of the gasket would stick out farther than the bottom, which is exactly what the original symptoms were. Perhaps I didn't need a new gasket? There was no visible damage. Pushing in the corners of the original gasket may have fixed it, but the new gasket worked perfectly! Thanks, Part Select!!