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Motor was bad
I have not received the parts yet waiting on the motor, can’t put the blower fan in without the motor, ordered it , Jan 23rd, still no motor, have to go to laundry mat, have you ever had to do that with 7kids, and you and your wife’s laundry, probably not, because you would have had your motor by now. Maybe you can help me with the part so I can redo a testimonial here for you. 19 days and still waiting
Repair was fairly simple, unplug power from dryer, take back top panel off, remove timer knob, remover timer switch, un-plug one lead at a time, and place on new timer, reconnect timer, put back on back panel, reconnect power to dryer, and that it.
Simply checked the thermostats for conductivity and found that they were working properly. Removed the heating element to check for conductivity and discovered a broken coil. If I had the part ready to go the whole process from taking off the first screw to replacing the element to screwing on the last screw would have taken less than 15 minutes. Very simple repair that I almost paid a service technician an additional amount for something that a novice DYI'er could do.
I put in the new parts but it still did not work, Turned out the Thermal Fuse Blew,removed the two wires and clipped them together and the Dryer worked, have to replace the Thermal fuse and everything will be OK.
To be short and sweet, the repair was simple once I got the parts I ordered which came really quick. I put them on and it worked fine. Ez to install as well. It only takes half the time to dry, it seems to work better than when it was new. I saved hundreds. The repair man was going to charge $69.99 just to come out to see what the problem was. The parts I needed were under $100 so figured I'd try an do it myself, after reading others repair stories. I did it! I will be a repeat customers if something else breaks down. Thanks Partselect.
unplugged the dryer-- opened the back of dryer--tested the element--found there was a break in the element--ordered a new element--put everything back togethered and it worked. 10 screws held the back wall on--2 screws and 2 wires to disconnect the element---not very difficult!!
unplugged the electrical cord, took the back off the drier, unplugged wires from the bad heat unit. took couple of screws out that hed it in place, removed it , installed the new one plugged wires back , put the back on , plugged in electric cord. turned it on and that was all , works great. the part you guys sent was identical to the original . thanks. Ken
2 problems dryer ran but wouldnt heat second was the door switch spring broke iwas using a plastic clampt o hold the button in so the dryer would run
first with the dryer unpluged ,i removed the wires from the upper thermal cut off ,then with a nut driver i removed it . replaced it with the new one and reattatched the two wires then the same on the bottom thermal . to replace the spring i removed the two screws pulled out the switch and spring at the same time ,removed the broken spring and replaced it onto the switch then placed it back into the dryer and replaced the screws.! everything worked like it han never been broke! my wife is verry happy!!!
Dryer makes squealing noise, finally the motor seized up.
My dryer started squeaking and I thought it was the drum rollers, so I bought a set. When I attempted the repair and got as far as removing the dryer drum and I decided to spin the shaft on the motor and that was where the squealing was coming from. I put the rollers on and reassembled the dryer. One day later the motor seized up. Ordered a new motor and installed it with no problems. The nut on the back of the motor ended up being a 20mm wrench. Motor cost me $105.56 and the maintenance kit (ps37308) (2 rollers,4 clips, button clip, new idler pulley and belt) cost $32.08. It cost a total of $137.64 in repairs with no labor costs and I accomplished it in under an hour. Minor handyman skills needed or find a friend who is handy. My dryer is 14 years old and now is running like new again. I used the 50% rule, if a repair exceeds 50% of the cost of a new machine, replace it, if the repair can be done for less than 50% of the cost of a new on, fix it.
Replaced the most worn drum wheel any lubed the belt tension arm pulley. The noise didn't go completely away. There are 4 drum wheels. I need to order 3 more wheels and the tension arm now.
Followed instructions for replacing old thermal cut-off with new model (this was slightly different from original equipment - wiring modification was required) All connections were detailed in the instructions. Jumper wire and new screws included in Thermal Cut-Off kit.
This was soo much easier then I thought!!! Make sure you unplug the dryer FIRST!! I removed the bolts that held the dryer back with the socket wrench. The removed the 2 screws that held the heating element in place. Disconnecting the cords was a little harder but will come off with the pliers. There is that piece of your old heating element that you need to remove to put on the new one that was hard to get off. its being held on by a metal lip and at first I couldnt figure out how to get it off, but then I just kept bending it (the metal lip) until I was able to get the piece off of it. Then just connect the wires onto the same points that your removed them from. Replace screws and back of the dryer and WaLa!!! You've just saved yourself the price of labor for an electrician.... Trust me if I can do this YOU can... My husband thought I was crazy.. I get shocked changing light bulbs but my dryer is drying a load of clothes as we speak!!!
I removed all the screws to the back panel to gain access to the inside. checked all thermostats and fuses for conductivity (0.001 ohms) resistance. noticed the thermal cut off fuse (thermostat) was showing no conductivity (infinite ohms or OL). FYI the thermal cut-off kit I purchased included both the thermal cut-off fuse(why this is called fuse is a lie its actually a thermostat) and high limit thermostat. I'm seeing alot of users purchasing these seperate but it isn't neccessary. You might need some wire strippers with a crimper though to install everything.
I removed the two screws underneath the lent trap the removed the two screws that held the dryer switch assembly. I then lifted up the top and disconnected the door switch assembly. Removing the door switch assembly was the toughest part, and it was not difficult. Simply grab a pair of pliers and pull. I the attatched the new door switch assembly and the four screws and my dryerwas as good as new. I paid around $20.00 including shipping and saved myself a couple of hundred dollars