Idler Shaft Retaining Ring WP354987
Rated by 18 customers
Easy
1- 2 hours
Ratings submitted by customers like you who bought this part.
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Idler Shaft Retaining Ring Specifications
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Replacing your Maytag Dryer Idler Shaft Retaining Ring
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Franklin from YPSILANTI, MI
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
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Robert W from OTSEGO, MI
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
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Fred from COLUMBIA FLS, MT
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable)
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Phil from PROCTORVILLE, OH
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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Tulio from ASHLAND, MA
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
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Orson from Harrisburg, IL
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
2) Pulled the front panel down and off
3) I checked the belt to see if it was broken and it wasn't
4) I tried to turn the drier barrel manually to see if I can move the belt... it did ... Read more n't move. Not knowing if there was just too much resistance, I tested the drier while looking at the motor and motor pulley as it ran.
5) I noticed that the motor pinion rotated, but the belt was slipping against it... that's why it smelled. The rubber was burning
6) Then I found that the idler pulley had stopped rotating, and the belt actually cut a channel into part of the plastic... That's when I realized that I had to replace at least the idler pulley.
7) Not knowing whether the bushing and other parts were going to be salvageable, I ordered parts for the whole assembly... but I wasn't sure how to best approach the repair...
8) Then I found partselect.com, and they had both diagrams of the assembly, all the parts easy to order, and best of all, a video of someone actually going through this repair! I was dumbfounded! :)
9) For swapping the parts I just watched the video on how to pull out the drier barrel... the only difference is that I didn't see a need to unplug the cables from the front top panel before removing the drier tumbler. (Obviously the power was turned off :P)
10) when I removed the barrel, I swapped the whole idler pulley assembly, just keeping the original spring.
11) Put everything back together, and it ran like a champ!
The video helped me save a lot of time though... it showed me how the whole thing is most easily serviced and made the repair a breeze!
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Mark from Shelburne, VT
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Difficulty Level:Really Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Screw drivers, Socket set
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Jonathan from Marietta, GA
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
1. UNPLUG YOUR DRYER FIRST.
2. Using a phillips head screw driver - Remove 2 screws that secure the dryer door hinges to the frame, Lift door very slightly to unhook hinges and pull out door with hinges attached a ... Read more s straight as possible, set aside. Remove the 2 plastic tabs from the opposing side of the door hinge also secured by screws.
3. Remove the front panel (panel is shaped like a football goal post) by tilting out the top ends of the front panel toward you, then lift up to remove panel from the bottom metal retaining tabs.
4. Remove the 2 hexhead screws from the 2 retaining clips (security hooks) that secure the top
of the dryer closed.
5. Systematically remove the hexhead screws from the rest of the front of "shroud" (it holds (suspends) the drum in place between the front and back of the dryer).
*** I didn't disconnect any wires, I carefully swung out each piece that had wires attached, propped up those parts vertically ensuring no strain on the attached wires. Others may want to disconnect wires to avoid breaking or damaging them.
6. Vacuum out any dust/lint that may be present.
7. Draw a quick diagram of how the underside of the belt is threaded on the idler pulley and motor pully first. Release the tension of the belt from the underside of the drum. The easiest way is to push the idler pulley arm away from the belt and slide off the belt from the idler pulley and motor pulley. Slide the drum out.
8. Remove the hexhead screw from the bottom of the idler arm. Disconnect from retaining spring.
9. You may only need to replace just the Idler Pulley Wheel. I recommend replacing as a "unit" the Idler Pulley Wheel, Idler Arm, Ring-E and Idler Shaft Washer(s) - then you can just swap out the old one for the new one.
10. Reassemble
(When reassembling the belt - place around drum first and slide drum in place. Now from the underside-place (drape) belt around the motor pulley (it will be very loose) Now push the idler pulley arm toward the motor pulley, engage the left side of the belt around the idler pulley and slowly allow idler pulley to increase its tension on the belt) You can test manually by rotating the drum by hand to ensure proper movement.)
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Lisa from Trenton, NJ
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
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Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
Removed the arm assembly and replaced with new parts. Reassembled in the reverse order and my wife is now happy with her QUIET dryer.
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Steven from Kirkwood, MO
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Difficulty Level:Easy
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Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
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Tools:Pliers, Wrench set
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Manufacturer Part Number: WP354987
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Item is not in stock and usually ships 10-15 business days from the time you place your order.
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