MGDX500BW2 Dryer - Instructions

YOU NEVER SENT ME THE PARTS!!!
I had to drive to a parts store to find them. On January 17, 2024, I tried to call you when the parts did not arrive and your recording said there were no reps available and you hung up. WE CANNOT GET HELP TO CANCEL THIS ORDER. We have been going in circles with PartSelect and shipping. SO, how do I get my refund of the $107.26 for the parts that I never received!!

I removed the two screws underneath the lent trap the removed the two screws that held the dryer switch assembly. I then lifted up the top and disconnected the door switch assembly. Removing the door switch assembly was the toughest part, and it was not difficult. Simply grab a pair of pliers and pull. I the attatched the new door switch assembly and the four screws and my dryerwas as good as new. I paid around $20.00 including shipping and saved myself a couple of hundred dollars

Removed old door switch and tested with ohms meter. It registered as charged, but when black button was pushed it did not cut off (go to zero). Replaced the part just like the video showed. Only problem i had was dropping my screwdriver down into the dryer well. It was doing no harm so i left it there since i tried retrieving from the back but was not able to get entire back off!

After getting the part and sizing up what to do. I removed the 6 1/4 hex nuts from the back. I removed the 2 hinge nuts 3/8 and popped the lid of the dryer up. It wasn't coming up all the way. I removed the lint filter and removed the two #1 Phillips screws that held the lid to the duct and it came up easy.The switch itself was clipped together and came apart with ease. 2 #1 Phillips screws held the switch in place and quickly tightened down the new switch. I clipped the new switch to the old lead and just reversed the order putting it back together. The light worked and the drum stopped when the door was opened during the cycle. The part matched perfectly and there was no guess work about clearance. It was an easy repair.

I first checked the owner's manual an on line documentation from the manufacturer on how to change the door switch on the dryer but found nothing. First step: Turn off breaker to dryer. I then popped the lid of the dryer and could see that the switch was accessible from the top. I was pleasantly surprised to see the parts arrive within 2 days with the lowest cost standard shipment. I loosened the 2 screws holding the switch, unplugged the modular clip, replaced switch, resecured with screws and dropped dryer lid back in place. Interior bulb was busted up, I removed cover plate, base and broken glass, seated replacement bulb, reattached cover and turned breaker back on. Dryer switch and bulb are working again. You sent me exactly what I needed and fast. Thanks for the quick turn around!

Determined that the door switch was not making contact. Removed the lint screen, removed two screws in the lint screen housing, pulled the top of the dryer up at the front of the dryer. This provided access to the door switch which was mounted on top.

The brightness of the light was because the door switch was allowing too much current to the light bulb when the door was open but the switch would not swich the current to the dryer motor when the door was closed. After a day or so of this bright light it burned out. I removed the two screws on top that hold the lint trap in place then I could access the switch by sliding the top of the dryer forward and lifting the it as you would lift the hood of a car. The switch is on the right side and plugs into a three wire connector and only fits in one way. Cheap and easy fix after unplugging the dryer from the wall power outlet.

I first tried replacing the Radiant Flame Sensor, which was located in a tight space and was very difficult to access. I finally gave up and called a handyman to replace it. That didn't fix my problem. I needed a new igniter. That was easy to replace, but it's fragile and I broke the first one...

I followed disassembly directions found on youtube and replaced th two-piece ring bearing that was identified by a parts diagra fron PartSelect. The repair was easy. Fix time was about thirty mionutes.

Watched Video - very helpful in repair Maytag Dryer working like new now Thanks for your guidance in my repair

1 Vice grips are required to remove the fan/blower. Clamp on inside of dryer so you can remove the blower/fan assembly

Recommend 10" or larger 14" will definitely do the job

2. Blower/fan is reverse threaded when facing the back of the dryer. That is how I broke mine. Turn clockwise to loosen - feels very unnatural

3. If you have to replace the 5 & 6 electrical connectors, you have to have a barrel crimper for insulated terminals - IWISS SN-02C RATCHET TERMINAL CRIMPING PLIER TOOL, 24-14AWG is a good example

Unplug dryer !! Remove 5 screws on the back of the console. Remove lint screen & 2 screws Remove timer dial .Place wood wedge under the top of the dryer. Force wedges into the space between the top & bottom of dryer. Lift top .There are two clips that hold the console to the top. This gives you access to the top & bottom clips that hole t he timer to the console. Remove timer &replace.

Since PartSelect NEVER sent the part from Las Vegas, NV; WAREHOUSE, I had to go to our local Maytag store in El Paso, Tx to purchase the part and hand install it. I called early March and spoke to Mark a representative from PartSelect.
MARK SAID THAT I WOULD RECEIVE CREDIT FOR THE CHARGED
ITEM THAT WAS NOT DELIVERED PLUS THE SHIPPING FEE. MY CREDIT CARD HAS NOT BEEN REFUNDED THE $83.13 THAT WAS
TO HAVE TAKEN PLACE LAST WEEK.
PLEASE CHARGE BACK $83.13 TO MY CREDITCARD, THANK YOU.

Very simple remove door pull off old seal, apply small amount of adhesive around seal seat. Install seal to door let cure for several hours over night is best

Put new part in slot and pushed