Had to replace the rear felt seal and the motor. It was no problem to find videos on how to do both of these repairs. Took apart the appliance. When the parts came first replaced the drum rear felt seal and waited for the motor to be delivered. Then replaced the motor as per online instructions. Also went to Home Depot to buy a new flexible dryer tube since the old one had a few holes. It works perfectly again.
It went well, I followed the instruction video and referred back to it if any questions or difficulty. The instructor on the video was obviously very experienced and duplicating his actions exactly was very helpful, One thing I noticed that wasn't mentioned was that the thread on the wheel / motor is left handed.
This could not have been easier. The hardest part was tipping the dryer over on its' side. Instructions: 1. Tip dryer over onto a non-scratch surface. I used a tarp on the floor. Insert leveling foot into the foot opening on the bottom of the dryer & screw in with fingers until it is difficult to turn. 2. Use the adjustable wrench on the hexed foot (not the threads) to adjust to the desired level. 3. Tip dryer upright taking care not to exert pressure on the feet closest to floor. I used a folded-up tarp under the bottom edge of the dryer while lifting it to the upright position. 4. Use a level, back to front & side to side, to determine if feet need further adjustment. 5. Adjustments can be made with the dryer in the upright position, using the adjustable wrench on the hexed foot.
I ordered this to repair my girlfriend's mother's dryer. But according to my luck, the day the part was to arrive, I suffered an small brain bleed that put me in the hospital for a couple of weeks. I had read the instructions and was able to explain it to my girlfriend who replaced it and got it all back going right!
I made sure dryer was unplugged and I removed back to expose the heating element canal on lower right side. Removed two screws and two electical connections. Pulled the element down and out. Used a flathead screwdriver to slowly pry the thermo senor off the heating element assy. There are no screws here just a small metal piece to hold it in place. Discarded the old element and reversed the above procedure. The best part of this is the part arrived quickly and I saved $50-75.
My wife took the back off the dryer, took 2 screws out of each side of the heating element caseing, unplugged heating element. Plugged in new element, put caseing back in place replaced 2 screws, put dryer cover back on, finished. Works great again.
This was super simple - even I could do it! I followed the 3-step instructions which basically described how to hold the new handle and pushed it into the holes in the door. Less than 30 seconds and no tools.
Dryer loads took repeated cycles to dry a normal sized load of laundry.
Researched causes of low heat and purchased thermostat and heating element. Delivery was less than one week. Installation was easy with the on-line video.
I followed disassembly directions found on youtube and replaced th two-piece ring bearing that was identified by a parts diagra fron PartSelect. The repair was easy. Fix time was about thirty mionutes.
Took apart front of cabinet, set aside. Undid the belt drive. Removed the drum. Noticed rear seal was with large gap where it wore away, causing the lint to leak onto the interior of cabinet. Ordered a new seal, removed old seal, prepped for new seal. Used spring clamp to hold new one on place. Applied the glue to hold seal in place waited 24 hrs to dry. Reinstalled drum, put cabinet back together. Plugged in ran whisper guiet.
Blower (fan) assembly and old model motor with different electrical connections
1 Vice grips are required to remove the fan/blower. Clamp on inside of dryer so you can remove the blower/fan assembly
Recommend 10" or larger 14" will definitely do the job
2. Blower/fan is reverse threaded when facing the back of the dryer. That is how I broke mine. Turn clockwise to loosen - feels very unnatural
3. If you have to replace the 5 & 6 electrical connectors, you have to have a barrel crimper for insulated terminals - IWISS SN-02C RATCHET TERMINAL CRIMPING PLIER TOOL, 24-14AWG is a good example
